Waist-pattern.



PATENTED SEPT. 10; 1907.

M L. GARRARA. WAIST PATTERN. APPLICATION FILED DBO. 2, 1905.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

rm: NORRIS PETERS cm, WASHINGTON, o. c,

No. 865,761. PATENTED SEPT. 10, 1907.

M. L. GARRARA.

WAIST PATTERN.

APPLICATION FILED D20. 2. 1905;

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Inve m: ncnms PETERS co., wasnmzrolv, a. c.

No. 865,761. PATENTED SEPT. 10, 190?.

' L. GARRARA. WAIST PATTERN,

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 2. 1905.

4 SEEETSSHEET 4.

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I .l l a I 1, @111; iii; i I g Inveni'o'li' I c I QWFQ/ 773M86 W L Till-NORRIS PETERS c0. wAsmNcroN, bv C MARIE LOUISE OARRARA, OF GENEVA, SWITZERLAND.

WAIST-PATTERN.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 10, 1907.

Application filed December 2, 1905. Serial No. 290,040.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, -MARIE LOUISE CARRARA, of Geneva, Switzerland, professor, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in and Relating to Waist-Patterns, of which the following is aspecification.'

Everybody who is familiar with making womens dresses is well aware that a waist tightly fitting the body can be obtained only by performing the socalled molding operation; that is to say, by adjusting on the very body or bust of the lady who is to be fitted, the different pieces of cloth intended to form the waist, (which means in this art the body and sleeves of the dress) or at least the lining of the same. But such molding on the person to be dressed is a somewhat difficult operation likely to consume several hours work by even a skilled dressmaker, while an unskilled dressmaker often cannot manage to accomplish it at all. I

The present invention has for its object to enable any, even an unskilled person, to make easily a molding of the waist, (which means the body and sleeves).

This improved waist-pattern comprises several pieces of cloth with reinforced edgings, the adjacent reinforced edges of two adjacent pieces being connected to each other by means of an elastic material and the whole being combined with a set of adjustable separating-pieces of different lengths which are intended to be inserted between the adjacent reinforced edges so as to hold-the same in the relative positions they have assumed when the pattern is fitted on the person to be dressed, these edges receding more or less from one another and thereby stretching the elastic devices by which they are connected to each other. After a first molding has been made in that manner, the waist or body-pattern may be kept by the dressmaker at the disposal of the customer for future dresses, the separating-pieces holding the parts in the relative position they have assumed during the operation just described. If on the other hand, the dressmaker desires to remove the adjustable separating pieces which have been put in for a first molding, she may make use of the same pattern for making a molding of the waist of another lady.

The waist pattern will be executed in different standard sizes.

The accompanying drawings show by way of example one form of execution of the invention.

Figure'1 shows the body-portion of the waist or body pattern partly unfolded. Fig. 2 is a similar view of the sleeve-part thereof. Fig. 3 is partially an elevation on a larger scale, of one half of the back part of the same waist or body-pattern, provided with adjustable separating pieces and with two lining pieces, pinned to the pattern and intended to be united together. Fig. 4 is a cross-section of the portion of the waist-pattern shown in Fig. 1, this section being on a larger scale than the elevation shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 5 shows in a separate view the sleeve of Fig. 3. Fig. 6 is a section of Fig. 5. Fig. 7 shows separately, in elevation and in plan view, several samples of one form of execution of the insertion pieces. Fig. 8 shows in plan view and in elevation, on a larger scale, the engagement of the elastics c with the hooks d. Fig. 9 is a front elevation of another form of construction of the bodice pattern; in tho'right hand portion of this figure, the front part of the bodice pattern is broken off so as to show the inside of the back part. Fig. 10 is an outside elevation of the sleeve of the bodice pattern shown in Fig. 9 Fig. 11 shows on a larger scale one portion of Fig. 9. Fig. 12 is a sectional view on line xy of Fig. 11. Fig. 13 is an edge view of the adjusting piece of Fig. 11.

The body portion of the waist-pattern consists of several pieces of thin cloth a, a a a, and a preferably of muslin, of about the same shape as the corresponding pieces of the waist which is to be made, but smaller than the latter, for a normal waist corresponding to their length. When the pattern is used, the parts a, a are applied to the back of the customer, the parts a under the arms and the parts a and a to the front of the body. Each piece of thin cloth has two borders stiffened by means of edge strips 1) of a strong material; for instance, stiff muslin, cardboard, metal, celluloid; except that the outer parts a have but one reinforced border or edge strip b.

The adjacent strips 12 of two adjoining pieces of thin cloth (as a and a are connected to each other by means of elastics or elastic loops 0 engaging with hooks d fastened to said strips in'the manner best shown in Fig. 8. According as the strips recede more or less from each other and stretch the elastics c, the dressmaker when fitting on a person having about the same length of waist as the parts of thin cloth, will apply between the strips b, (in all places where the latter are forced apart from each other), separating or insertion pieces 6 which are intended to prevent the said parts of thin cloth from closing together again, when the pattern is taken off from the person. Sundry forms of said separating pieces e are shown in Fig. 7.

The waist-pattern is accompanied by sets of insertion pieces a of various lengths so as to enable the dressmaker easily to find insertion pieces corresponding to the gaps left between the stiffening strips.

Upon each of the parts of thin cloth there is stitched a piece of lining-cloth f, cut in the direction of the texture and corresponding to the waist-part, but of greater width than the part of thin cloth to which is is stitched.

In Fig. 4, only two of the parts of thin cloth, the parts a and a have pieces of lining stitched to them in order to leave the figure intelligible.

The molding of the waist being accomplished as described above, by'means of the insertion or separating pieces e, all the parts of the lining are spread and pinned together by stretching them over the molded pattern.

Each of these waist patterns may be sold with several sets of pieces f.

The shoulder strips b and b Fig. 3, are connected to one another by means of elastics c in the same way as the other strips.

The elastics for joining together the several strips may consist of loops as shown in the drawing or of ribbons or pieces of elastic fabric and said elastics may be fastened by any other means than hooks (1; these latter, however, in combination with loop-shaped elastics have the advantage of facilitating the ultimate replacing of said elastics in case of their tearing; and, furthermore, of fastening the same very firmly to the strips.

In order to obtain a good molding, the person to be fitted ought to wear a well-fitting corset or at least a tight-fitting bodice. The pattern is then-applied to the body, the lining being placed outside; the two front portions a are now pinned together, (Fig. 4), a two-centimeter seam being left along their whole height. In all places where the pattern is smaller than the waist, the elastics will be stretched, thus requiring suitable insertion or separating pieces e inserted in all these places. Whenever the pattern is larger than the waist, it is necessary to increase the surplus portions of the parts a at the right of Fig. i, in orderto make the pattern fit smooth and tight.

The sZeeoe.The pieces of thin cloth a of which the sleeve is made up are held apart (when necessary) by the insertion of separating pieces e, as in the case of the waist, As before, lining f is used.

Use of the lining cZ0th.-When all theparts of the bust and sleeves are pinned, the dressmaker should remove the lining from the waist pattern; then follow the trace of the pins with a roll, so as to precisely mark the line for sewing as well as that for cutting the cloth. Thus it will be possible to obtain a seam of uniform width.

The machine seams should follow exactly the basting outside the border in order to prevent any narrowing of the body. The collar is now fitted by taking a band of muslin, cut on the bias and of the necessary length. Stretch it to a length of 8 to 10 centimeters round the neck, stitch it to the waist on the person or upon the waist already molded and provided with the pieces hereinbefore mentioned, pin it all around the neck and cut away at the front part the surplus cloth.

In the construction as shown in Figs. 9 to 13, the bodice-pattern comprises, as in the form of construction just described, pieces a a of a non-extensible cloth and each reinforced by strips l) etc. But the elastic strips 0 of Figs. 1-8 are here replaced by pieces g of elastic material (for instance plaited crape) which will normally tend to draw together the strips b to which they are fastened. The parts a a the pieces 9 and the strips 1) are connected to one another by means of seam m. Metallic clasps o are slidably mounted on the reinforcing strips b and carry buttons having the flat base n and the rounded head n The latter engages (after the manner of a glove fastener) the socketed member n carried by the insertion piece 6 of cardboard or of other rigid material, which are made in different lengths. The bodice-pattern as shown in Fig. 9 is provided with a collar consisting of strips 70 and Z which are connected to one another by means of an elastic piece g Upon the strips 70 and 1 there are insertion or separating pieces e intended to be made use of for the collar. In Fig. 9, h is a waist band and i are buttons for connecting the same with the strips h carried by the pieces of thin cloth a, a etc. In Figs. 9 to 13 no lining is indicated, the same being here made use of just as in the first form of construction described.

I claim:

1. In a fitting pattern, the combination of pieces of non-extensible material having stifi strips on their adjoining edges, an elastic connection between the said strips, whereby the same may be moved toward and away from each other, and slidable separating pieces interposed between the said strips and having loops at their ends receiving the strips, whereby they are held on the strips and may be moved in the direction of their width between the strips.

2. In a fitting pattern, the combination of pieces of non-extensible material having stiff strips on their adjoining edges, an elastic connection between the said strips, whereby the same may be moved toward and away from each other, pieces of lining cloth detachably fastened on the said pieces of non-extensible material, and slidable separating pieces interposed between the stiff strips and having loops at their ends receiving the strips, whereby they are held on the strips and may be moved in the direction of their width between the strips.

3. In a fitting pattern, the combination of pieces of non-extensible material having stiff strips on their adjoining edges, hooks on the said strips, elastic loops removably held on the hooks and connecting the strips, whereby said strips may be moved toward and away from each other, and slidable separating pieces interposed between the said strips and having loops at their ends receiving the strips, whereby they are held on the strips and may be moved in'the direction of their width between the strips. In testimony whereof I have afiixed my signature in presence of two Witnesses. 

